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Acne is one of the most confusing (and not to mention distressing) skin conditions out there, as is figuring out the best acne treatment to address it. Take it from someone who’s been there, what works for one person can turn a minor breakout into a full-blown situation for another.
But not all hope is lost. While it can feel like you’re the only one dealing with acne, 90% of Americans experience it at some point in their life (around 20% of them being women 26 and older). And while not all skin reacts the same, there are some key similarities in both why you’re experiencing breakouts, as well as the products you should look for to calm them. Before you even try to find the best acne treatment, it’s important to know exactly what type of acne you’re dealing with so you can target your treatment accordingly.
What Causes Acne?
According to New York City dermatologist Shari Marchbein, M.D., all acne can be traced back to four main causes: Clogged pores thanks to “sticky” cells, bacteria, oil production, and hormones. All of these factors combine to cause a different type of acne, but some cause certain types more than others.
When trying to treat acne, Marchbein notes that it’s just as important to keep the intensity of your acne in mind, not just the type. For anything above mild acne (meaning, occasional breakouts that aren’t inflamed), you should make an appointment with a dermatologist sooner rather than later. “I never think it can be too early to go see a dermatologist,” she says. “If you’re getting hyperpigmentation—darkening of the skin from the inflammation left from the acne—you want to seek care immediately.” Another way to know it’s time to make a trip to the derm? You’ve tried over-the-counter products, and they don’t seem to be making a change. “Most acne treatments will clear your skin in three months, so if by two months you’re not seeing good results, you need to see your dermatologist,” says Marchbein.
Ahead, we break down the most common types of acne you might be dealing with, as well as how to treat it at home, and when to see the derm.
Blackheads
When bacteria mixes with clogged pores and creates inflammation, you get your papules (no pus head) and pustles (pus head). “These red bumps are inflammatory papules,” says Hale. “They don’t necessarily have a whitehead, and they’re likely to scar.” Since they’re inflamed (red, raised, and swollen from the inside out), they are sensitive to the touch, so keep your hands off them. While it might be tempting to pop those with a white pus head, don’t, because it can spread bacteria (raising your chance of breaking out even more) and lead to scarring.
These are generally more closely related to bacteria than your hormones or a lack of exfoliation, so papular pustules require a different plan of attack. “Inflammatory acne types really respond to antibiotics, either topical or systemic,” says Hale. These, of course, require a trip to your dermatologist. If you’ve tried over-the-counter products and aren’t seeing any improvement, it’s time to make an appointment. To tide you over, you could also try applying hydrocortisone cream, which temporarily takes down redness and swelling, or a pimple patch to keep from picking. These products will help in the short term, but if you deal with papules consistently, you should go to the derm.
The Best Acne Treatments for Papules and Pustles
Having a consistent skin-care routine as well as a trusty spot treatment with calming ingredients like oat extract and aloe can help mild acne heal faster—or Hale likes a home remedy of crushed aspirin and water—and using a retinol can help with cell turnover and fade dark marks.
The Best Hormonal Acne Treatments
